matching dampers with spring rates

with many commerically available shocks rebound and compression settings are simply labeled as 1-16 or whatever,
how can you match shock with spring rates- to ensure you don't blow the sock apart too soon?

I dunno, but there seems to be a large educational gap in damper-land, based on the number of questions that seem to pop up in here.

Surely there must be somebody out there with some experience who can answer all these questions easily...

This is probably the best explanation of deciding on damper rates available on the internet:

http://www.optimumg.com/techtips_techtips.htm

I'd calculate what you need based on this advice then dyno the dampers you have and see if they meet your requirements.

Ben

I wish I could remember where I read about adjustable dampers and how bad they mostly are. Apparently there are very few that are truly linear in adjustment and most of the adjustable stuff is suspect in how useful the adjustability really is. I wish I could find it as the article was based (so it seemed) on very good first hand knowledge by the author who rebuilt dampers for a living using a shock dyno. I will keep searching and see if I can find it.

Indeed this is the case, the guy who rebuilds my shocks dyno's them at each adjustment point for this reason.
the problem stems from the valve actuators having an adjustment unit of a defined distance, not a percentage of opening area for instance 50% of the adjustment in distance (clicks) may translate to 80% of the area being exposed.
This happens with both needle adjusters and with the sleeve valves that use two holes that rotate to align.
This is the sort of detail why some shocks cost $1000 a set, while others are $2000 each. (Even from the same company)

I'll vouch for that. Though I have only experience of the bottom end of the cost scale, I have seen brand new Protech shocks that were dead soft (ie no damping to speak of) right up to the last click, where they went solid. I struggled for 2 seasons on a set of Gaz shocks that just would not handle (I know understand that was cos they were 3* harder in bump than rebound no matter where the adjustment was, when you actually want them the other way around).

Finally spent a *little* more on a set of Spax, spent the time explaining to their tech head what my car was and what I wanted of it, he spent the time listening, and the car was 1-2 seconds a lap (no exageration) faster. Maybe it would have gone another 2 seconds a lap faster if I'd spent 3 times as much? Fortunately I didnt need it to go any faster!

G

I had a set re-valved by Koni. That was when Dave Phillips was there (he may well still be there!), and I gave him he spring rates. He matched the valving to the springs, and they were perfect out of the box.

I've had them rebuilt twice since then, over a period of about 12 years.

With the right springs/dampers on the car, I shaved almost three seconds off my laptime at Oulton Park (full circuit) first time out with it, and as I got used to the way the car worked, every time out was quicker than the one before.

in an old Volvo amazon the list of readily availble springs and shocks is very limited unless i go custom.
how can you tell the proper matching of spring and shocks for off the shelf matching?
I have a custom set up being put together so this is purely theory -unless the custom set is deemed illegal by some sancitoning body.
it might by the more pure vintage racers (not remote resevoir, but adjustable and adjustable front ARB)