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I've always bought them upon arrival with no problem, or just camped around the circuit without paying extra.
Food at the track used to be the best I'd ever had trackside, but they have sold their catering to someone else recently and it's not up to the standards it was before. However, there are some cafes and restaurants in Francorchamps village and it's easy to get the bus to Stavelot if you need. There's also a demi-buffet in the paddock which costs a few Euros but it's a nice place to hide from the weather.
It's a lovely race, first mark on my calendar each year. For the record, Spa also manages the 'concert-during-a-24-hour-race' better than other attempts (eg Le Mans).
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